Day Twentyone - Jun 18, 2017
Kotor, Montenegro to Dubrovnik, Croatia
Daily Didactic
Today we left Kotor for Dubrovnik, which on paper is a short hop and in practice ate most of the day. We were in no hurry about it. The morning was a slow unwind out of the stone studio on the Piazza of Salad, packing up and hauling the backpacks down the lane one last time while the old town was still close to empty. Theresa got in a final painting session in a quiet cafe, watercolors and a sketchbook open next to the laptop, which is more or less how she signs off on a place. We made our last stop at Tanjga, our favorite grill the whole trip, for one more enormous and ridiculous plate of meat under the vine roof. If there is one thing we are consistent about, it is eating at the good place one more time on the way out the door. From there it was a walk past the Grill and over to Autobuska stanica Kotor for the bus to Croatia. The coach was comfortable enough, blue seats and a window, and it rolled us back along the Bay of Kotor with the mussel ropes sitting flat on the water and mountains stacked up on either side. Fifty-seven miles and a couple of border crossings later we dropped into Dubrovnik, caught a local bus toward the old town, and walked in through the Pile Gate past Onofrio's big fountain into a Stradun thick with the afternoon crowd. Seventy-nine degrees with a real breeze, which for Alaskans is about as good as a glaring marble street gets. We found our hideaway up an alley strung with laundry, dropped the packs, and spent the evening wandering Prijeko hunting dinner among the floodlit baroque churches. A good travel day, which is to say an unremarkable one.