Day Twentynine - Jun 26, 2017

Split, Croatia

High Point: Getting in the water at Bene, the rare Alaskan swim
Low Point: No shade between us and the headland, at ninety degrees
Miles By Foot: 4
Today's Antiquities: Diocletian's Palace, Mestrovic's Grgur Ninski statue, the Roman ruins by the hostel, the iron Ribarnica market hall
Today's Weather: 90º. Clear. Hot
Tonight's Lodging: Emilija's 3 story flat in old town
Touristic Events: The Ribarnica fish market, the long walk around Marjan to Bene Beach, a Bene swim, the Grgur Ninski toe, dinner at the Uje Oil Bar
Travel Tip: If everyone's rubbing the statue's toe, you rub the toe. Resistance is futile

Daily Didactic

Ninety degrees and clear again, so we did the sensible thing and built the day around getting wet. We started slow out of Emilija's flat and wandered down to the Ribarnica, Split's old iron fish market hall, to look at the morning catch. It's a proper working market, crates of red mullet and sea bass on the stone floor, a monkfish laid out looking like a mistake. Theresa photographed the whole spread; Brian admired the architecture and kept a respectful distance from the fish. We took a coffee break at Bepa, where Brian got a latte and Theresa a pink juice the color of a sunset, and then committed to the long way around. The plan was Bene Beach, out on the western tip of Marjan, which meant walking most of the headland under full sun with no shade to speak of. Worth it. Bene is rocks, pines, and a stretch of Adriatic so clear it looks fake, with picnic tables tucked under the trees for the heat-averse. We got in the water, which for Alaskans is a kind of victory, and parked at a shaded table to dry off. On the way home we did our civic duty and rubbed the big toe on Mestrovic's giant Grgur Ninski statue, because everyone does and we are not above it. We wound back through Diocletian's Palace lanes, past the Roman ruins next to the hostel, and called it a short four-mile day. The beach did the heavy lifting. Dinner at the Uje Oil Bar, under a painted old map of the Palace with a red bike parked out front, and back to Emilija's.

Where we slept last night