Day Twentyeight - Jun 25, 2017

Split, Croatia

High Point: Marjan at night, harbor lights doubled on the water
Low Point: Ninety-one degrees, earned one stone step at a time
Miles By Foot: 7
Today's Antiquities: A small stone chapel on Marjan, the alleys of Veli Varoš, Split's old town
Today's Weather: 91º and clear
Tonight's Lodging: Emilija's 3 story flat in old town
Touristic Events: Climbing Marjan Hill, a terrace beer over the city, dinner at Chops Grill, an evening harbor walk
Travel Tip: When it's ninety-one and clear, climb the hill first and let the afternoon win

Daily Didactic

Day two in Split, and the morning's only real plan was to climb Marjan, the wooded hill that sits over the old town, before the day turned into ninety-one and clear. We left Emilija's three story flat (whose bathroom sink is a stainless stockpot perched on a stool, which tells you most of what you need to know about the place) and wound up through the narrow stone lanes, past the kind of details Split keeps handing out for free: a stenciled dolphin labeled DALMATIAN OIL, a collapse warning bolted to a wall, a little stone chapel parked in the middle of everything. The climb pays off. From the balustrade up top you get the whole red roof spread of Split, the harbor, the cruise ships, and the mountains across the water. We did the heart-cushion cafe thing on a terrace with that same view, a couple of beers, and Brian taking the photo everyone takes. The afternoon belonged to the heat, the way ninety-one degrees pretty much insists, with a cold Garden Brewery IPA and a lemonade in a cooler room. Dinner was Chops Grill, a place with a cow diagram on the wall and the stated philosophy that the only time to eat diet food is while you're waiting for the steak. We let it make its case with a mixed grill platter the size of a small country. The walk home went back through the alleys (Brian, for reasons known only to Brian, barefoot) past murals we keep passing, and ended at the harbor with the lights doubled on the water and the long bridge strung out east. Seven miles, mostly uphill and back, and we are not complaining.

Where we slept last night