Day Twentytwo - Jun 19, 2017
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Daily Didactic
A no-bus day, which after the last week felt like a reward. We slept in at our Old Town hideaway and drifted out past the little chapel down the alley, where the resident tabby was holding court on the stones and declined to acknowledge us. We cut through the Gundulić Square market, all red umbrellas and crates of produce under a Dubrovnik Sanitat sign, found a courtyard cafe, and let someone deliver a coffee with a leaf drawn into the foam. We did our dutiful loop past the cathedral, which is baroque and has seen better visitors than us, and climbed the old walk above Ispod Mira to look down on the rooftops. There's a carved hand on a wall up there that, on close reading, just says DANCE. We took the advice loosely. The afternoon was the point: out the cliff path under the city walls, past Fort Lovrijenac and a single absurd agave shooting up against the fortress, then down the stone stairs to the coves on the Lapad side. This is where Dubrovnik goes swimming, and so did we, twice, at eighty-two and sunny, which for Alaskans is basically the surface of the sun. Theresa found a pair of spray-painted angel wings to stand in front of and a wall near the university covered in a large, generous, vaguely tribal mural. A smaller stencil nearby read MAKE ART NOT WAR, which felt about right for the neighborhood. We came back around to Buža Bar, the hole-in-the-wall built into the rocks below the walls, once from above and once at sunset, because a table on the cliffs is not a one-visit proposition. We watched a tall ship loaf around Lokrum, then ate at Kopun as the Jesuit church went orange. Eleven miles on foot. Brian still loves his wife very much.