Day Twentyfive - Jul 6, 2014

Bergen, NOR to Geigranger, NOR

High Point: Catching the Geiranger fjord one-way, by ferry, for a fraction of the price
Low Point: Less sun than promised, though it never properly poured
Miles Boat: 29
Miles By Automobile: 63
Miles By Plane: 159
Price Per Gallon: It cam
Today's Antiquities: Geiranger Fjord, the Seven Sisters
Today's Weather: Rainy in Bergen, overcast in Alesund, clearing by night. In the high 50's to low 60's
Tonight's Lodging: Vinje Camping
Touristic Events: Bergen in the rain, the Hellesylt harbor, the Geiranger fjord ferry, the Seven Sisters
Travel Tip: Skip the round-trip tourist boat; the Hellesylt-Geiranger ferry IS the fjord cruise, takes the car, and leaves you where you want to be

Daily Didactic

A travel day, which is to say a day spent moving and not arriving. Bergen gave us a proper Norwegian goodbye, low cloud sitting on the rooftops and a steady rain, so we shouldered the packs and walked the wet cobbles down to the Flybussen looking like a small expedition that had lost its mountain. Bergen rewards a soaked walk with good signage, and we collected a few on the way out: a Viking-shop arrow pointing to men carrying shields, a building that had quietly racked itself sideways with the window frames recut to match, and a menu screwed to a door, which we approved of. A small plane took us to a satisfyingly small Ålesund, and then it was the car, sixty-three miles of impossibly green countryside threaded by tunnels longer than the hills seemed to warrant. We stopped at Hellesylt to stretch and photograph the harbor, and to admire a sausage counter that lets you specify your sausage by length, in a knife-and-board sort of way, which the rest of the world should adopt. From Hellesylt we boarded the second ferry of the day, which is the Geiranger fjord cruise wearing a cheaper hat and the courtesy of dropping you where you actually want to be. The fjord closed in, the Seven Sisters poured down the cliff doing exactly what they are paid to do, and Cori navigated the car deck with style points that Todd may dispute. We landed at Vinje Camping by way of a driveway Google still insists is ours, then sat under the heaters at Olebuda over a dinner that was excellent and priced like it knew it. Two Alaskans, unbothered by the drizzle.

Where we slept last night